Type: pressed steel monocoque Escort three-door hatchback shell with Ford
Motorsport front and rear spoilers.
Sunburst Red, Caspian Blue, Stratos Silver, Diamond White, Black and Graphite
Bore/stroke: 79.96 mm x 79.52 mm
Compression ratio: 8.3:1
Max power: 115 bhp @ 6000 rpm
Max torque: 106 lbf.ft @ 5250 rpm
Cylinders: four, in-line
Cylinder head: alloy
Block: cast iron
Installation: front-mounted, transverse
Valve gear: two valves per chamber, single overhead camshaft
Induction: Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection with overrun cut-off.
Gearbox: five-speed Ford B5
Internal ratios: 1st, 3.15:1; 2nd, 1.91:1; 3rd, 1.27:1; 4th, 0.95:1; 5th, 0.83:1
Final drive: 3.84:1
Front: independent with MacPherson struts, leading link TCS location and separate
anti-roll bar, 22mm lowering Koni dampers with progressive rate coil springs
Rear: independent with transverse arms, locating rods0, 22mm lowering Koni
dampers with progressive rate coil springs
Type: unassisted rack-and-pinion
Front: 240mm ventilated discs
Rear: 180mm drums
Wheels & Tyres
Wheels: seven-spoke RS alloys, 6x15
Tyres: 195/50 VR15 (UK cars only)
Trim: Recaro front seats in Ascot fabric trim, 60:40 rear-split seat
Grey leather covered sports steering wheel
Max speed: 118 mph
0-60 mph: 8.7 sec
You’ll find the chassis numbers on the front slam panel and stamped directly on the
driver’s side floorplan. On the floorplan it’s hidden under the cut-away carpet and if
there’s any fresh paint or welding in this area then walk away. The CVH should have
a finned motorsport cam cover and twin coils to the right of the engine (these are
sometimes replaced due to expense…but shouldn’t be !!) The interior should have
schell roll top seats and a 4 spoke RS steering wheel. Make sure all aux lights are
there as well. Check the V5 form..it WILL state if it’s a 1600i or a made up vehicle !!!
Bottom line is you need to check for rust. Check the battery tray, chassis runners
(especially the rear section), front and rear wings, bulkhead, plus give the scuttle
panel a good prod. Another problem is crash damage. Look for mismatched panel
colours, overspray, large panel gaps and wonky filled patches. Check the car under
artificial light for signs of bad re-painting. This is where street lights are gold mine.
Make sure the aux lights and front and rear spoilers are in good order, difficult and
expensive to replace.
The CVH is about as tough as they come, especially with the RS’s non-hydraulic
tappets version. Blue smoke from the exhaust indicates worn bearings or bores and/or
stem seals (replace with Total Seals). Timing belts will have needed to be changed
fairly often (36k) and the injectors can become blocked. Servicing is crucial and so
are regular oil changes.
The B5 box can get tired, sloppy linkage and the synchromesh wearing on 1st and 2nd.
Check the clutch as well, third gear pull away, checking for slippage and juddering.
Three-stage adjustable set-up..yep, that’s right !!! Should all feel tight and responsive.
Check for leaking dampers, snapped/saggy springs and worn bushes.
The Escort RS is prone to warping its discs. A lack of feel through the pedal is not
unusual, but watch for shuddering through the steering wheel. If they’ve been
upgraded, ensure there are receipts.
Rare, rare, rare seats !!!! One of a kind and really expensive if not impossible to
replace..so make sure the condition is spot on..did I also mention n they are RARE ??
RS steering wheel as standard, different door panels and centre console. Make sure all
Make sure all switches are working. Bosch K-Jetronic injection system can be a prob.
Make sure it is running smoothly, no juddering or jumping (hiccups !!) and no starting
probs. Twin coils MUST be in good order, very difficult to replace.
Look carefully at cars in this price range. They will need a lot of tidying and quite a
bit of money spent on them. You could end up with a bargain or a complete rust
bucket. Also look out for fakes…if in doubt, double check the chassis numbers and
contact the RS Owners Club. They can verify if its real or not.
£2000 – 3000
Spend this kind of money and you’ll have a good example on the drive. It’ll be
straight and honest, but don’t expect it to win any awards. There’s likely to be a
average miles and history. Basically, it’ll be a good used buy that looks respectable
and drives well. Beware of wolves in sheeps clothing though !!! Maybe modified.
Pay this money and you’ve every right to expect an excellent example in return. Cars
will be very clean with FSH, few owners and low mileage. Concours spec with loads
REMEMBER: THESE PRICES ARE JUST A GUIDLINE.
The ‘K’ in K-Jetronic stands for “continuous injection” – German for continuous is
KONTINUIERLICH. In the US it was known as the CIS-Jetronic (Continuous
Injection System). This is because the system fires the injectors continuously, unlike
the other electronic systems, one at a time.
Germany fitted Phoenix rubber from the factory and the UK fitted Dunlop D4’s